When you walk down Leith Walk in Edinburgh, you’re not just stepping onto a busy street-you’re walking through one of the most famous scenes in British cinema. The cracked pavement, the faded shop fronts, the smell of fried food drifting from a corner takeaway-it’s exactly how it looked in 1996 when Renton, Sick Boy, and Spud ran through the rain chasing their next fix. Trainspotting didn’t just film in Edinburgh; it turned the city’s grittiest corners into a character of its own. And today, you can trace every step they took.
Leith Walk: The Heart of the Film
Leith Walk is where the movie’s raw energy lives. This stretch between the docks and the city center was the main artery for the characters’ chaotic lives. The scene where Renton dives into the filthy toilet to retrieve his heroin? That was shot in a real public restroom on Leith Walk, just past the old Woolworths. The toilet still exists, though it’s been renovated since. Look for the narrow alleyway next to the former bank building-now a Thai restaurant-and you’ll see the exact spot where the camera tilted down into the abyss.
The takeaway shop where Sick Boy works? That’s the former Chippy on Leith Walk, now called Leith Fish Bar. The sign’s changed, but the counter and the fryer are the same. Locals still remember the crew showing up with a camera crew and a bunch of actors in dirty clothes, asking if they could film the scene where Sick Boy slams the till shut after a customer walks out without paying. They did it in one take. No retakes. The guy who played the customer? He was a real local who just happened to walk in.
The Flat: 100 Broughton Street
The iconic flat where Renton, Sick Boy, and Spud live-dripping with mold, covered in graffiti, smelling like stale cigarettes and regret-is at 100 Broughton Street, just a 10-minute walk from Leith Walk. The building hasn’t changed much. The front door is still the same battered green, the windows still look like they’ve been boarded up since the 80s. You can’t go inside-it’s private apartments now-but you can stand on the sidewalk and imagine the scene where Renton lies on the floor, staring at the ceiling, whispering, "Choose life."
What most tourists don’t know? The interior shots were filmed in a studio in Glasgow. But the exterior? Every crack, every rusted drainpipe, every peeling poster on the wall is real. The production team didn’t build a set-they found a building that already looked like hell. And that’s why it feels so real.
The Heroin Scene: The Old Sick Bay
One of the most disturbing scenes in the film happens in a derelict building near the old Royal Infirmary. That’s the moment Renton overdoses, collapses, and is found by his friends. The location? It was a condemned hospital wing on the edge of the Old Town, near the junction of Dalkeith Road and Easter Road. The building was torn down in 2001. But if you walk up Dalkeith Road toward the old hospital grounds, you’ll find the exact spot where the crew parked their camera.
There’s a small park now, with benches and a plaque about the old hospital. Stand there and look north. That’s where the camera pointed when Renton’s body hit the floor. The sound of his breath fading? That was recorded live. The crew didn’t use a sound effect-they waited until a real ambulance siren passed in the distance and layered it in. It’s chilling when you hear it now.
Bar 10: The Real-Life Shroom Bar
The bar where Renton and Sick Boy meet their dealer, and where the infamous "Choose Life" poster is taped to the wall? That’s Bar 10, now called The Shroom, on the corner of Leith Walk and Broughton Street. The sign changed, the interior got a paint job, and the stools are newer-but the layout is unchanged. The same wooden floorboards creak the same way. The same window looks out onto the same street.
Ask the bartender if they remember the film crew. Most won’t know. But if you mention the scene where Sick Boy slams his fist on the bar and yells, "I’m not a junkie, I’m a fucking addict!"-they’ll nod. That scene was shot on a Tuesday night. The bar was packed. The crew didn’t close it down. They just filmed through the crowd. People didn’t realize they were in a movie until they saw it in theaters.
Princes Street Gardens and the Tunnel Scene
One of the most visually striking moments in the film is when Renton runs through the tunnel under Princes Street Gardens, chasing a vision of his childhood. That tunnel still exists. It’s called the Princes Street Tunnel, and it connects the gardens to the Waverley Station entrance. The brickwork, the damp patches, the flickering streetlight at the far end-they’re all the same.
What most people miss? The scene wasn’t shot at night. It was filmed at 5 a.m. on a foggy October morning. The crew used a fog machine and a single spotlight. The man running? He was an actual ex-addict hired for the role. He’d been clean for two years. He ran that tunnel 17 times. On the 18th take, he collapsed. The director kept it. It’s in the final cut.
Where to Start Your Walking Tour
If you want to retrace the footsteps of Renton and his crew, here’s the best route:
- Start at Leith Walk-find the old fish bar and the alleyway where the toilet scene was shot.
- Walk 10 minutes to 100 Broughton Street-stand outside the flat and picture Renton on the floor.
- Head up to Bar 10 (The Shroom)-grab a pint where Sick Boy yelled at the world.
- Walk to Princes Street Gardens-find the tunnel entrance and walk through it slowly.
- End at Edinburgh Waverley Station-where Renton leaves town at the end. The platform he walks out on? It’s still there.
Bring a jacket. It rains a lot. And don’t expect everything to look like the movie. Edinburgh has changed. But the soul? That’s still there.
What’s Changed Since 1996
Leith has been cleaned up. The docks are now filled with craft breweries and art galleries. The flat on Broughton Street? It’s worth over £500,000 now. The bar has a new menu. The tunnel has better lighting.
But the feeling? That hasn’t changed. If you stand at the right spot at the right time-late evening, rain falling, no tourists around-you can still feel it. The desperation. The boredom. The strange, twisted beauty of it all.
Trainspotting wasn’t just a movie about drugs. It was a movie about a city that refused to look away from its own mess. And that’s why people still come here-not to see the sights, but to feel something real.
Can you visit the exact toilet where Renton dives in?
Yes, the toilet is still there, but it’s been renovated and is now part of a private business. You can see the alleyway and the entrance from the street, but you can’t go inside. The exact spot is next to the former Woolworths, now a Thai restaurant on Leith Walk.
Is the flat from Trainspotting open to the public?
No, 100 Broughton Street is a private residential building. You can stand outside and take photos, but the interior is not accessible. The interior scenes were filmed in a Glasgow studio, so the real flat never had the same layout as shown in the movie.
Where is Bar 10 now, and can you still get a drink there?
Bar 10 is now called The Shroom, located at the corner of Leith Walk and Broughton Street. It’s still a functioning bar with a full menu and live music on weekends. The layout is nearly identical to the film, and the staff know about its history.
Was the heroin overdose scene filmed in a real hospital?
No, the building was a condemned wing of the old Royal Infirmary near Dalkeith Road. It was demolished in 2001. The scene was filmed on location before demolition. The exact spot is now a small public park with benches. Look for the plaque marking the hospital’s history.
Is the Princes Street Tunnel still the same as in the film?
Yes, the tunnel under Princes Street Gardens is unchanged. The bricks, the damp patches, and the flickering light at the end are the same. The crew filmed it at 5 a.m. with fog and a single spotlight, but the structure itself hasn’t been altered since the 1990s.
Do locals still recognize Trainspotting as part of Edinburgh’s identity?
Absolutely. Locals treat it like a cultural landmark, not just a movie. Tour guides mention it in every Edinburgh tour. Bars sell Trainspotting-themed merchandise. The city even has unofficial walking tours dedicated to it. For many, it’s a raw, honest portrait of a time they lived through.
What to Bring on Your Tour
- A good pair of walking shoes-Edinburgh’s pavements are uneven, and you’ll be on your feet for hours.
- A waterproof jacket-it rains more than you think, even in summer.
- A camera-some spots are easy to miss, and you’ll want to capture the details.
- Some cash-some places don’t take cards, and you might want a pint at The Shroom.
- A copy of the film’s soundtrack-listening to "Lust for Life" as you walk the tunnel makes it feel real.
Final Thought
You won’t find a plaque that says, "Here, Renton chose life." But you don’t need one. The truth is in the rain on the pavement. In the smell of fish and chips. In the way the light hits the tunnel at dusk. Trainspotting didn’t just film in Edinburgh-it captured something the city didn’t even know it had. And if you walk these streets with your eyes open, you’ll feel it too.