The Water of Leith Walkway isn’t just a path-it’s Edinburgh’s hidden artery of green, history, and quiet escape. While most visitors rush to the castle or Royal Mile, locals know this 12-mile trail along the river offers something deeper: a peaceful rhythm between city bustle and wild riverbanks. You can start at Balerno, end at Leith, or hop on anywhere in between. No ticket. No crowds. Just water, trees, and the occasional heron.
What Is the Water of Leith Walkway?
The Water of Leith Walkway follows the natural course of the Water of Leith, a river that rises in the Pentland Hills and flows 24 miles through Edinburgh into the Firth of Forth. The walkway itself is a 12-mile paved and gravel path built on the old railway line that once carried coal from the hills to the port of Leith. It opened in stages between the 1980s and early 2000s, transforming abandoned tracks into one of Scotland’s most loved urban trails.
It’s not a hike. It’s a stroll. You can push a stroller, ride a bike, or walk your dog. The surface is mostly smooth, with gentle slopes. There’s no elevation gain to fear-just rolling hills that feel more like breathing room than effort. Along the way, you’ll pass 18th-century mills, hidden gardens, art installations, and even a working weir that still powers a small hydroelectric generator.
Trailhead Access Points: Where to Start
You don’t need to walk the whole thing. The beauty of the Water of Leith Walkway is how many doors it has. Here are the six most practical trailheads, ranked by accessibility and amenities.
- Balerno Station (Mile 0) - Start here if you want the full experience. The walkway begins just behind the train station, with parking, public toilets, and a café. This is the quietest start point, surrounded by woodland. Perfect for early morning solitude.
- Colinton (Mile 2.5) - A popular local launchpad. Park near Colinton Mains Road. You’ll find a small playground, benches, and a historic watermill turned into a community arts space. The path here is shaded by tall beech trees.
- Canonmills (Mile 5) - Easy access from Edinburgh’s west end. Take the 12 or 21 bus to Canonmills. The trailhead is right by the river bridge. Nearby, you’ll find a Tesco Express and a bike repair shop. Great for a lunchtime walk.
- Stockbridge (Mile 7) - One of the most charming sections. The path runs parallel to the river just below the famous Stockbridge Market. Park at the public lot on Edinburgh Road or take the 2, 12, or 16 bus. The river here is lined with willows, and you’ll often see kayakers floating past.
- Dean Village (Mile 8.5) - A postcard-perfect stop. The walkway enters this 19th-century mill village through a stone arch. Cobblestone lanes, waterwheels, and ivy-covered cottages make this feel like stepping into a fairy tale. There’s a small café called The Dean House, open daily.
- Leith (Mile 12) - The finish line. End at the Water of Leith Visitor Centre, right by the docks. You’ll find a free exhibition on the river’s history, public restrooms, and a pub called The Fishmarket that serves fresh seafood. The path ends at the old Leith Harbour, where the river meets the sea.
What You’ll See Along the Way
Don’t just walk-look up, look down, look sideways. The Water of Leith is full of quiet surprises.
- The Water of Leith Visitor Centre - At the Leith end, this small museum has maps, old photos, and live fish tanks showing native species like brown trout and lampreys. Staff can tell you where the best birdwatching spots are.
- Thistle’s Bridge - A narrow stone footbridge near Dean Village. Locals say if you whisper a wish here, it comes true. No one’s confirmed it, but the bridge is always covered in tiny painted stones left by visitors.
- Colinton Tunnel - A 150-meter-long, unlit tunnel under the A720. Bring a phone flashlight. The walls are covered in graffiti from the 1990s, but the acoustics make it feel like you’re walking through a cathedral.
- Leith Links - Just before the river ends, the path opens into a 100-acre public park. This is where Edinburgh’s oldest golf course (founded in 1630) sits. You’ll see people playing, families picnicking, and geese grazing.
- Historic Weirs and Mills - At Colinton, Dean, and Leith, you’ll find old stone weirs still in use. One at Dean Mill powers a small turbine that lights up a nearby bench at night. Another at Balerno was used to grind grain until 1957.
Best Times to Walk
Timing matters. The path changes with the seasons-and the crowds.
- Spring (March-May) - The river swells with meltwater. Cherry blossoms bloom along Stockbridge. Birds return: kingfishers, grey wagtails, and dipper birds. Fewer people. Best for photography.
- Summer (June-August) - Long days, warm evenings. The path is busiest here, especially near Stockbridge and Dean Village. Bring water. The shade is good, but the sun hits hard between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.
- Autumn (September-November) - The golden season. Maple and sycamore trees turn fiery red and orange. The path smells like damp earth and fallen leaves. Less crowded than summer. Perfect for a slow walk with a coffee from a local bakery.
- Winter (December-February) - Quiet. Cold. Magical. Ice forms on the river near Balerno. The visitor centre is open, and the lights in Leith harbor glow against the dark. You might have the whole path to yourself.
What to Bring
You don’t need much, but a few things make the walk better.
- Water and snacks - Only a few spots have cafes. Pack a bottle and some nuts or a sandwich.
- Light rain jacket - Edinburgh weather changes fast. Even in summer, a sudden drizzle can roll in off the Firth of Forth.
- Phone or map - The path is well-signed, but signal drops in the tunnel and near the woods. Download the offline map from the Water of Leith Trust website.
- Comfortable shoes - The path is mostly flat, but there are gravel patches, uneven stones near weirs, and occasional roots. No flip-flops.
- Binoculars - For birdwatching. You’ll see kingfishers, herons, and sometimes otters near Dean Village.
How Long Does It Take?
It depends on how you walk.
- Fast walk (no stops): 3-3.5 hours
- Leisurely stroll (with coffee and photos): 5-6 hours
- Full day with stops (Dean Village, visitor centre, lunch): 7-8 hours
If you’re short on time, walk just from Stockbridge to Dean Village-that’s 1.5 miles, takes 30 minutes, and shows you the best of the walkway. Or take the bus to Leith and walk back to Stockbridge. The path slopes gently uphill, so it’s easy on the legs.
Connecting to Other Trails
The Water of Leith doesn’t end at Leith. It connects to bigger paths.
- Leith to Portobello - From the end of the walkway, follow the promenade along the beach to Portobello, a 2-mile seaside walk. There’s a café on the beach with hot chocolate and fish and chips.
- Edinburgh to Glasgow (National Cycle Network Route 7) - At Balerno, the walkway links to the National Cycle Network. You can bike all the way to Glasgow, 45 miles away.
- Heritage Trail to Holyrood - From the city center, take the Royal Mile to Holyrood Park, then follow the path along the Water of Leith’s upper tributary. It’s a 4-mile loop that ties into the main trail near Canonmills.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even regular walkers make these errors.
- Starting too late in the day - The path gets dark by 4:30 p.m. in winter. If you’re walking to Leith, you’ll be in the tunnel after sunset. Bring a light.
- Expecting a wilderness trail - This is an urban path. You’ll hear traffic, see bikes, and pass people with dogs. It’s not remote. But that’s part of its charm.
- Ignoring the side paths - There are dozens of little side trails leading to gardens, churches, and hidden courtyards. Take one. You’ll find a secret bench with a view of the river you didn’t know existed.
- Leaving trash - The Water of Leith Trust runs volunteer clean-ups every month. Help keep it clean. Use the bins at trailheads.
Why This Path Matters
The Water of Leith Walkway isn’t just a route-it’s a story. It’s the memory of coal trains that once clattered through here. It’s the silence after the last factory closed. It’s the children who now ride their bikes past the same mills their grandparents once worked in.
It’s one of the few places in Edinburgh where you can hear water over concrete, where nature reclaims what industry left behind. And you don’t need a ticket. You don’t need to book ahead. You just need to show up.
Is the Water of Leith Walkway wheelchair accessible?
Yes, most of the path is wheelchair and pushchair friendly. The surface is paved or compacted gravel, with gentle slopes. Some sections near weirs or old bridges have slight bumps, but there are alternative routes marked with yellow signs. The Water of Leith Visitor Centre in Leith has accessible restrooms and a ramp onto the path.
Can I bring my dog on the Water of Leith Walkway?
Absolutely. Dogs are welcome but must be kept on a leash in areas near livestock, bird nesting zones, and near the riverbank. Some sections near Dean Village and Colinton have signs asking for dogs to be under control-this is to protect nesting birds and small wildlife. Always carry poop bags.
Are there public toilets along the route?
Yes, but not everywhere. Toilets are available at Balerno Station, the Water of Leith Visitor Centre in Leith, and near Dean Village (in the café). There are no toilets between Canonmills and Stockbridge, so plan ahead. Some public parks along the route have portable toilets in summer.
Is the walkway safe at night?
It’s generally safe, but not recommended after dark. Lighting is limited, especially in the Colinton Tunnel and wooded sections. The path is well-used during the day, but foot traffic drops sharply after sunset. If you walk at night, carry a flashlight and stick to the main path. Avoid the tunnel without a light.
How do I get to the Water of Leith Walkway by public transport?
Edinburgh’s bus network connects to all major trailheads. Take the 12, 16, or 21 to Canonmills; the 2 or 12 to Stockbridge; the 2, 12, or 22 to Leith; and the 10 or 15 to Balerno. Trains stop at Balerno and Slateford, both within a 5-minute walk of the path. Use the Lothian Buses app for real-time schedules.
Can I cycle the entire Water of Leith Walkway?
Yes, cycling is allowed and popular. The path is shared with walkers, so slow down near crossings and give way to pedestrians. Bikes are not allowed on the narrow footbridge at Thistle’s Bridge-you’ll need to walk your bike across. Bike racks are available at Balerno, Leith, and Dean Village.