When you first step into Edinburgh, the city doesn’t just welcome you-it splits in two. One side is steep, narrow, and ancient, with stone buildings leaning over alleyways like they’ve been holding secrets for centuries. The other is wide, orderly, and elegant, with Georgian facades and tree-lined boulevards that feel like a painting frozen in time. This isn’t just a city with two districts. It’s two entirely different worlds, sitting side by side. And your choice of where to stay? It’ll shape your whole trip.
Edinburgh Old Town: Where History Lives in the Walls
The Old Town climbs up the spine of Castle Rock like a vine. Its streets-Royal Mile, Grassmarket, Cowgate-are cobbled, winding, and packed with history you can touch. This is where Mary, Queen of Scots walked. Where the 16th-century canons of the University of Edinburgh taught future philosophers. Where the 17th-century vaults beneath the streets held smugglers, plague victims, and the ghosts of both.
Staying here means waking up steps from Edinburgh Castle, the real one-the fortress that’s been defending (and sometimes attacking) this city since the 12th century. You’ll hear bagpipes echoing down closes at night. You’ll pass pubs that have served whisky since before the Union of 1707. The air smells of damp stone, roasting chestnuts, and peat smoke from nearby hearths.
But it’s not all postcard charm. The Old Town is steep. Really steep. If you’ve got tired knees, a stroller, or heavy luggage, you’ll feel it. Many guesthouses and B&Bs are in converted tenements-charming, yes, but often with narrow staircases and no elevators. Some rooms are tucked under eaves, with sloped ceilings and windows that look out onto another building’s chimney.
Still, if you want to feel like you’ve stepped into a scene from Outlander or Harry Potter, this is where you belong. The real magic happens after dark. When the crowds thin and the streetlamps glow amber on wet cobbles, the Old Town doesn’t just look historic-it feels alive.
Edinburgh New Town: The Grand Design
Walk down the hill from the Castle, past the Scottish Parliament, and suddenly the air changes. The buildings are taller, cleaner, symmetrical. The streets are named after British royalty-George Street, Queen Street, Princes Street. The sidewalks are wide. The streetlights are uniform. This is the New Town, and it was built on purpose.
In the 1760s, Edinburgh’s Old Town was overcrowded, unsanitary, and crumbling. The city’s elite decided to build a new, modern district on flat land to the north. They hired architects, planned grid patterns, and insisted on uniform facades. The result? One of the finest examples of urban planning in Europe. UNESCO called it a masterpiece. It’s still one of the best-preserved Georgian cityscapes in the world.
Staying in the New Town means luxury hotels with brass handles and plush carpets. It means breakfast in a room with high ceilings and bay windows overlooking gardens. It means walking to the National Gallery in five minutes, or hopping on a bus to the Royal Botanic Garden without climbing a single hill.
There’s no lack of character here, either. The New Town’s charm is quieter-elegant bookshops on George Street, cozy wine bars tucked into basements, and the quiet hum of a city that knows its worth. You’ll find more chain hotels and international chains (like Starbucks and Waitrose), but you’ll also find independent boutiques and cafes that serve single-origin coffee brewed just right.
And let’s not forget Princes Street. It’s not just a street-it’s the city’s living room. In summer, it’s lined with flower beds and open-air concerts. In winter, the Christmas market turns it into a glittering wonderland. It’s where locals meet for coffee, tourists take selfies with the Castle in the background, and the whole city seems to pause for a breath.
Where to Stay: Old Town or New Town?
So which one do you pick? It depends on what kind of trip you’re after.
- Choose Old Town if you want to be in the heart of the action, surrounded by history, and don’t mind a bit of a climb. It’s ideal for solo travelers, history buffs, and anyone who wants to wake up within shouting distance of the castle. Budget stays here are plentiful-hostels like the YHA Edinburgh a well-known youth hostel located in the heart of the Old Town, offering affordable dorms and private rooms with castle views-but if you want something cozier, look for a small B&B on the Royal Mile. Places like The Sheep Heid Inn a 14th-century pub with rooms above, serving traditional Scottish fare and offering a genuine historic stay blend lodging with local flavor.
- Choose New Town if you prefer comfort, convenience, and a quieter base. It’s better for families, couples, or anyone who wants to avoid steep hills and long walks after a long day. Hotels like The Balmoral a luxury hotel on Princes Street, known for its iconic clock tower and fine dining, often frequented by visitors seeking upscale comfort or The Witchery by the Castle a boutique hotel with gothic interiors and opulent rooms, located near the Old Town but offering New Town-level service offer top-tier stays. But even mid-range options like CitizenM Edinburgh a modern, tech-savvy hotel with compact, stylish rooms and a 24/7 lobby bar, located near Waverley Station in the New Town deliver clean, efficient comfort without the price tag of a five-star.
Here’s the thing: you don’t have to choose one forever. Many visitors split their stay-two nights in the Old Town to soak in the atmosphere, then two nights in the New Town to rest up and enjoy the finer things. It’s a luxury most cities don’t offer.
What You’ll Miss If You Skip One
If you stay only in the New Town, you’ll miss the raw, unfiltered soul of Edinburgh. You won’t hear the echo of footsteps in the closes at 10 p.m. You won’t stumble upon a hidden courtyard where a fiddler plays traditional reels for loose change. You won’t feel the weight of centuries pressing down in the narrow alleys of the Lawnmarket.
If you stay only in the Old Town, you’ll miss the quiet elegance of a Sunday afternoon in the New Town’s gardens. You won’t sip a latte while watching the sun set behind the Firth of Forth from a Georgian balcony. You won’t walk into a bookstore that’s been around since 1850 and find a first edition of Sir Walter Scott’s Waverley tucked behind the counter.
Edinburgh isn’t just a city with two districts. It’s a city with two identities. One is wild, ancient, and full of stories. The other is calm, refined, and built to last. You need both to understand it.
Pro Tips for First-Time Visitors
- Walk the Royal Mile from Castle to Holyrood. It’s not just a street-it’s a timeline. You’ll pass the Palace of Holyroodhouse, St Giles’ Cathedral, and the Writers’ Museum-all within 1.5 kilometers.
- Use the bus. Lothian Buses run every 10 minutes between the Old and New Towns. A day ticket costs £4.50 and covers all routes. No need to walk uphill with a suitcase.
- Book early. Edinburgh is popular year-round. The Fringe Festival in August sells out months ahead. Even in December, hotels fill fast for Christmas markets and Hogmanay.
- Check the weather. Edinburgh is wet. Always carry a light raincoat or umbrella. The Old Town’s cobbles get slippery. The New Town’s pavements? Not much better.
- Try a local drink. Don’t just order whisky. Ask for a dram of Scotch-it’s not just a drink, it’s a ritual. The Whisky Bar at The Scotch Whisky Experience an interactive attraction and tasting room near the Royal Mile, offering guided tastings of over 300 whiskies is a great place to start.
Final Thought: It’s Not Either/Or-It’s Both
Some travelers think they have to pick sides. They want the grit of the Old Town or the polish of the New. But Edinburgh doesn’t work that way. The city’s power comes from the tension between them-the way the Castle looms over the Georgian squares, the way the bagpipes drift down from the High Street into the quiet of George Street.
Stay in the Old Town for the soul. Stay in the New Town for the comfort. But if you can, stay in both. That’s how you get the full picture. That’s how you understand why Edinburgh isn’t just a city on a hill-it’s a living story, written in stone, brick, and whisky.
Is it better to stay in Old Town or New Town in Edinburgh?
It depends on what you want. Old Town is best for history lovers who don’t mind steep streets and want to be right next to the castle. New Town is better for comfort, easier access to transport, and quieter surroundings. Many visitors split their stay to get the best of both.
Can you walk from Old Town to New Town in Edinburgh?
Yes, you can walk from the top of the Royal Mile in Old Town to the bottom near Princes Street in about 20-25 minutes. But it’s uphill both ways. If you’re carrying luggage or have mobility issues, take the bus-Lothian Buses run frequently and the ride is only 5 minutes.
Is Edinburgh Old Town safe at night?
Yes, the Old Town is generally safe at night, especially along the Royal Mile and near major attractions. It’s busy with tourists and locals alike. Stick to well-lit streets, avoid isolated closes after midnight, and use common sense. Like any city, pickpocketing can happen in crowds, so keep valuables secure.
What’s the best area in Edinburgh for first-time visitors?
For first-timers, staying near the Royal Mile in Old Town gives you the most iconic experience. But if you want easier access to transport, better amenities, and less climbing, the New Town around Princes Street or Waverley Station is more practical. Both are excellent choices-just know what you’re signing up for.
Are there budget stays in New Town Edinburgh?
Yes. While New Town is known for upscale hotels, you’ll find solid budget options like CitizenM Edinburgh a modern, tech-savvy hotel with compact, stylish rooms and a 24/7 lobby bar, located near Waverley Station in the New Town, or hostels like The Arch Hostel a clean, centrally located hostel with private and dorm rooms, just off Princes Street. Prices are higher than in Old Town hostels, but you’re paying for convenience and comfort.
If you’re planning a trip to Edinburgh, don’t just pick a hotel. Pick a vibe. Choose the stones that have seen kings, or the squares that have welcomed poets. Either way, you’re not just visiting a city-you’re stepping into its story.